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replacing drive belt?

7th Generation Celica (ZZT230/ZZT231) [2000-2005]


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Old 03-08-2010, 02:27 PM   #1 (permalink)
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replacing drive belt?

First, I'm 99% sure that it's my drive belt. I get a really loud, fast clicking/squealing noise whenever I'm in gear and moving (the higher the RPM, the faster the clicking). WD-40 to the belt makes it go away for about a mile. The belt is only $13, so can someone explain how to replace it? I think it's just release the tension, slip it off, slip the new one on?
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Old 03-08-2010, 02:27 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Old 03-08-2010, 03:01 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: replacing drive belt?

your talking about the accessory belt right? its on the alternator and PS pump?
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Old 03-08-2010, 03:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: replacing drive belt?

The one on the passenger side of the engine, I think its also called a serpentine belt??
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Old 03-08-2010, 04:36 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: replacing drive belt?

future reference im pretty sure if you lube up your belt it will squeak. if antifreeze, oil, etc. when i had water pump replaced the bearing went and anti freeze got all over the belt had a squeak until i changed belt. cant find the diagram but those should help

Index of /imagearchive/bgbonline/7thGen_shopmanual
(bgb)

Alright. I just changed the Serpentine belt on my wife's 2001 Celica GT. Here are fairly detailed instructions on how to do it. USE THEM AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! USE THEM AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
First. There are six pulleys on the passenger side of the motor. They are arranged almost like the diamonds (or whatever) on a 6 of diamonds playing card with the two in the center being set closer together than the top and bottom pairs. SO get a piece of paper and draw six circles on it like this. I am going to use numbers to help explain how the belt is routed.
2) alternator (1 power steering
tensioner pulley 3) (4 water pump
crank (5 6) A/C
The parenthesees show which direction the belt goes around the pulley.
Second, Take off the right side plastic cowling by popping out four plastic studs. Use a flat blade screwdriver and carefully pry them out. You may even be able to reach under and push a locking pin out of them. It is the dot in the center of the button head. Just push it straight out.
Third, Take off the top cowl from the head. It has two 10mm cap nuts and two plastic studs. They are not the same as the passenger side cowl studs. Just carefully pry them out with a plastic screwdriver. You will damage the cowling less if you pry under the cowl, not the buttons.
Fourth, Use an 18mm box wrench to loosen the bolt that holds the tensioner(About 6 inches behind the tensioner pulley). Push on the belt and you will notice that it has loosened some. Use the handle of a hammer to push harder on it and it will loosen a little more. Pry the belt off the alternator pulley and the rest will be pretty easy.
Fifth, Start routing the belt around the back three pulleys. Get it under pulleys 5(crank pulley) and 6(air conditioner compressor) with the ribs facing up. Loop it so that the flat side of the belt goes around pulley 3(Tensioner pulley). Then snake it around pulley 1(power steering) with the ribs facing the pulley. Move to the front of the motor. Bring the belt up and around pulley 4(Water pump)Bring up all remaining slack to the alternator pulley (6) Now holding the belt with one hand, make sure the belt has not fallen off the pulleys and adjust as neccesary.
Now take a 19MM box wrench and put it on the adjuster lug(about two inches forward of the bolt you loosened) on the tensioner assembly and pull toward the front of the car. At the same time, wiggle and pull and tug the belt onto the alternator pulley. You may need to put the box end of your 18mm wrench over the front lug of the open end of the 19mm to extend the 19mm so that you have leverage to pull it forward. Once the belt is on the alternator pulley, let the 19mm wrench back off. it will feel spring loaded. The belt will tighten and snug itself down to the pulleys. Then just tighten the 18mm bolt back up and check your work. Start the car to make sure it is on properly. Replace your cowls.
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Old 03-08-2010, 05:53 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: replacing drive belt?

Thank you so much. I'm gonna go print this out and see what I can do.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikecole89
Second, Take off the right side plastic cowling by popping out four plastic studs. Use a flat blade screwdriver and carefully pry them out. You may even be able to reach under and push a locking pin out of them. It is the dot in the center of the button head. Just push it straight out.

If you push the center button of it down with a screwdriver, it pops up. I had to go get 5 of these today cuz half of mine are missing.
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Old 03-10-2010, 08:48 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: replacing drive belt?

Here is another info site just in case you still need help. I found this very helpful when I was changing my serpentine belt
Serpentine belt change out how to with pictures - NewCelica.org Forum

You can rent a serpentine belt changer tool from auto zone for free, which is what i ended up doing
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Old 03-10-2010, 11:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: replacing drive belt?

Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivefry02
Thank you so much. I'm gonna go print this out and see what I can do.

If you push the center button of it down with a screwdriver, it pops up. I had to go get 5 of these today cuz half of mine are missing.

There is a drawing of the serpentine belt routing on page #1088 of the 7th gen repair manual VOL 2. Follow link below.

http://www.celispeed.com/dump/00-cel...ir-volume2.pdf

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Old 03-12-2010, 04:11 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: replacing drive belt?

Now let me ask this. I haven't had the time to look at this yet but yesterday my friend told me it sounds like it just needs to be tensioned? Is that hard to do?
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Old 03-12-2010, 08:00 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Re: replacing drive belt?

Quote:
Originally Posted by idrivefry02
Now let me ask this. I haven't had the time to look at this yet but yesterday my friend told me it sounds like it just needs to be tensioned? Is that hard to do?

What I think your friend is refering to when he says "tensioned" is the belt needs to be adjusted (tightened). Years ago we used to have to tighten the belt manually as the belt loosens due to the belt wearing & stretching. For the past 10 to 15 years car manufacturers have been using an automatic belt tensioner which is really nothing more than a spring loaded pully that keeps constant tension on the belt so if the belt stretches the spring loaded pully makes up for that keeping the belt tight. I am quite confident you have a automatic spring loaded tensioner. If your belt is squeeling is is usually 1 of 3 things. 1) You need a new belt due to wera or stretching. 2) You need a new belt tensioner due to the spring that loads the belt pully weakens through time & 3) You need a new belt tensioner pully (the actual wheel that rides on the belt) due to the pully bearing weraing out and the pully itself squeels. Basic rule of thumb for me is if I am tinkering around with tensioner or tensioner pully I always replace the belt. It's cheap enough and always good insurance. I hope this helps.

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Old 12-16-2011, 01:50 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Thumbs up Re: replacing drive belt?

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikecole89
future reference im pretty sure if you lube up your belt it will squeak. if antifreeze, oil, etc. when i had water pump replaced the bearing went and anti freeze got all over the belt had a squeak until i changed belt. cant find the diagram but those should help

Index of /imagearchive/bgbonline/7thGen_shopmanual Drive Belts
(bgb)

Alright. I just changed the Serpentine belt on my wife's 2001 Celica GT. Here are fairly detailed instructions on how to do it. USE THEM AT YOUR OWN RISK!!! USE THEM AT YOUR OWN RISK!!!
First. There are six pulleys on the passenger side of the motor. They are arranged almost like the diamonds (or whatever) on a 6 of diamonds playing card with the two in the center being set closer together than the top and bottom pairs. SO get a piece of paper and draw six circles on it like this. I am going to use numbers to help explain how the belt is routed.
2) alternator (1 power steering
tensioner pulley 3) (4 water pump
crank (5 6) A/C
The parenthesees show which direction the belt goes around the pulley.
Second, Take off the right side plastic cowling by popping out four plastic studs. Use a flat blade screwdriver and carefully pry them out. You may even be able to reach under and push a locking pin out of them. It is the dot in the center of the button head. Just push it straight out.
Third, Take off the top cowl from the head. It has two 10mm cap nuts and two plastic studs. They are not the same as the passenger side cowl studs. Just carefully pry them out with a plastic screwdriver. You will damage the cowling less if you pry under the cowl, not the buttons.
Fourth, Use an 18mm box wrench to loosen the bolt that holds the tensioner(About 6 inches behind the tensioner pulley). Push on the belt and you will notice that it has loosened some. Use the handle of a hammer to push harder on it and it will loosen a little more. Pry the belt off the alternator pulley and the rest will be pretty easy.
Fifth, Start routing the belt around the back three pulleys. Get it under pulleys 5(crank pulley) and 6(air conditioner compressor) with the ribs facing up. Loop it so that the flat side of the belt goes around pulley 3(Tensioner pulley). Then snake it around pulley 1(power steering) with the ribs facing the pulley. Move to the front of the motor. Bring the belt up and around pulley 4(Water pump)Bring up all remaining slack to the alternator pulley (6) Now holding the belt with one hand, make sure the belt has not fallen off the pulleys and adjust as neccesary.
Now take a 19MM box wrench and put it on the adjuster lug(about two inches forward of the bolt you loosened) on the tensioner assembly and pull toward the front of the car. At the same time, wiggle and pull and tug the belt onto the alternator pulley. You may need to put the box end of your 18mm wrench over the front lug of the open end of the 19mm to extend the 19mm so that you have leverage to pull it forward. Once the belt is on the alternator pulley, let the 19mm wrench back off. it will feel spring loaded. The belt will tighten and snug itself down to the pulleys. Then just tighten the 18mm bolt back up and check your work. Start the car to make sure it is on properly. Replace your cowls.

why is it so complicated to fix this thing! when i read you said "USE THEM AT YOUR OWN RISK!!" i started to think if i will be continuing something that i never tried before. looks like the best move for me to make is to find an independent mechanic than do this all by myself. even though i have the set of tools im a sure i will messed up that could cause me some serious amount of cash. anyway thanks for the advice guy even though most of you are not active anymore. ty
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