2006 update...

**GT4WRC** · 01-11-2006, 01:47 AM

While I was swanning around Europe, the new pistons were successfully fitted to the revised block....

... we couldn't get some ACL +1mm pistons so turned to a set of Wisecos from the US...

So, with that part completed, I could now start putting everything back together..

ARP studs fitted along with the new HG...

Oil pick-up and splash pan fitted following a few hours in the acid bath....

New crank oil seal fitted....

Due to different cams, altered CR and different pistons, a test was required to ensure that valves and pistons didn't come into contact with each other so off to the local toy shop for some...

This was then put onto the piston crowns where the valves would likely come into contact...

Once all 4 pistons had been set so they sat half way up the bores, the cylinder head could be fitted and torqued into place....

The top cam cover backing plate and lower belt cover were fitted next to ensure that the cam wheels and bottom pulley were positioned correctly....

.... prior to the cambelt being fitted....

Once everything was properly assembled, the engine was carefully turned over for a few revolutions, taking care to ensure that there was no unwanted resistance.

Then, the belt and head were removed so the doh on the pistons could be inspected. This revealed plenty of clearance between pistons and valves. Obviously a good thing....

With the doh removed, the head could be refitted. This being the current state and the end of play today...

Work prevents me from doing more until Friday morning when the rebuild will continue. Watch this space...
Gary

**Locker** · 01-11-2006, 12:06 PM

Good to have you back Gary!!!!!

**Arabian_Knight** · 01-11-2006, 01:58 PM

I love these updates...its like a whole learning experience for me to watch something as thorough and precise as this. Great posting, project and information!

**MartinGouda** · 01-11-2006, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Locker

Good to have you back Gary!!!!!

**GT4WRC** · 01-11-2006, 06:31 PM

Nice to be back :)

JR · 01-11-2006, 08:41 PM

wow, as always, an amazement
agreeing with locker and martin
good to have ya back :D

**GT4WRC** · 01-12-2006, 03:34 AM

Managed to skive of work this arvo and managed to get quite a bit done.

Finishing off fitting the sump to the bottom of the motor...

... including a nice shiney powdercoated sump pan

Genuine parts where possible. New belt and idler and tensioner wheels...

... finished off the camblet side of things...

... allowing the bottom cover to be fitted.

OE fuel rail (for now) was bolted on. As this was originally a 3SGE head, slight mods had to be made - including the injector holes which needed to be enlarged to suit the 3S-GTE injectors.

Then the inlet manifold could go on.

To the front and fitment of the alternator bracket and bling alternator :D

State at the end of the day. Loom is now partially fitted along with numerous hoses etc. Really glad I took lots of photos before I stripped the motor down

Need to adapt the cam cover slightly as I can't use the centre throttle body support due to the lack of castings etc on the n/a head. No real issues asthere is plenty of other support. Once that is done the cover can be fitted. Then, hopefully, time to fit the box. More to follow tomorrow :D
Gary

**Locker** · 01-12-2006, 09:39 AM

simply beautiful!
Your attention to detail makes me drool

**Lil_lissa** · 01-12-2006, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Arabian_Knight

I love these updates...its like a whole learning experience for me to watch something as thorough and precise as this. Great posting, project and information!

**ThroesofRejection** · 01-13-2006, 12:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Locker

simply beautiful!
Your attention to detail makes me drool

**GT4WRC** · 01-14-2006, 01:18 AM

Quite a productive couple of days.

Turbo and manifold were fitted. Sticking with the stock items for the time being.

Note the WRC extras such as the antilag attachments...

Lightweight Fidanza flywheel was bolted on...

... followed by the Xtreme clutch kit...

Found the adjustable cam wheels I'd put somewhere 'safe'

Cams were set up last night as per the HKS spec sheet...

With that done, the cam cover could be bolted into place...

Next, the transfer case was split from the gearbox to allow it all to be bolted up to the motor...

With that done, the rest of the wiring loom was attached along with any other brackets etc...

And with the alternator, PAS and aircon drive belts on, next step is to put the complete unit back where it came from :D

Gary

**3sgte@daspeedof** · 01-14-2006, 03:31 AM

Simply amazing, I can't help but think I'm working with a half track, and your building a subtle beast.

**GT4WRC** · 01-15-2006, 01:46 AM

After nearly 8 weeks, it was time to put the motor/box back in. :D

Reverse of removal, simply lowered the car onto the engine....

... allowing the gearbox and cambelt end mounts to be attached - the engine then being held it place.

Then it was 'simply' a case of putting everything back together...

Planty of room with the larger Koyo rad and Kenlow fans...

Once the 'top half' was finished, the underside was pieced back together...

... and rear diff and gearbox were filled with new oil...

At this stage, all that remains to do is fill up the cooling system, WAI, bleed the brakes, fit the wheels and plug in the loom under the dash. Then it'll be the real acid test - turning the key. Until then, the car will sit like this until the morning...

Having access to a fully kitted out workshop is such a bonus ;)
Gary

**Speak07** · 01-16-2006, 10:43 PM

You have my two of favorite cars ever sitting there, one of which I own, the other I wish I did.
Got me a mkII MR2, but alas no GT-four :( lol

**ThroesofRejection** · 01-17-2006, 01:02 AM

Bet you won't be able to sleep tonight, seeing as you'll be drivin' your baby (hopefully) tommorrow.

Can we expect to see any vids?

**GT4WRC** · 01-17-2006, 01:22 AM

Turned up the next morning ready to go. Topped up the fluids - plain water in the cooling system (no glycol for the first 1000kms)

Water Wetter was added to the WAI along with sufficient water...

... and Valvoline SAE 30 API SF/CC 'Running In Oil'.

OE plugs were removed from the original fans and soldered to the new Kenlow fans and connected...

Now the time to turn the key. Fuel pump had been left disconnected following the earlier swap to an uprated aftermarket pump.

Engine was then cranked over until the oil warning light on the dash was extinguished. It was then tried a couple more times just to make sure before the pump was reconnected. Then all was ready...

Key was turned and the engine actually fired up pretty quickly and wasn't too bad on idle. It was left to get up to temp - but it was soon evident that there was a water leak. Switched off and further investigation revealed that the OE coolant spring clamps were no long doing what they were supposed to. With hindsight, these should have been swapped to jubilee clamps during the rebuild!
So, after much hassle, the coolant pipe clamps were swapped and teh system pressure tested to ensure all was as it should be.

Car was then restarted, ran for a short time and then cut out. Restarting wasn't an issue, but it just wouldn't idle - holding the revs up with the throttle open helped, but something was amiss...

As it would still run with throttle open, we drove car up the road to get a WOF and see if it'll sort itself out. No such luck. Ran even worse when you start to come onto boost. So after passing the WOF, get car back to workshop for further investigation.
Only fault code which shows up is 54 - WAI system which is cleared. Then, Air Control Valve shows problem up on the diagnostic tool which is then cleared. Still no idle. TPS is checked and found to be out so is altered to correct factory setting, but still won't idle. Checked to ensure all the plugs are attached and no obvious vac pipes etc left off.
By this time, motor is cold and when re-started, it seems to run fine. However, as soon as the temp starts to rise, the idle goes to pot once again. Ignition is spot on and good flow of fuel. Diagnostic sensor shows the 'mixture' reading as alternating between rich and lean. No more fault codes are coming up on either the diagnostic tool or the dashboard. At this stage it's getting late, so it's left until the next morning...

Tried restarting the car first thing this morning, but now it just didn't want to idle. So first thing was to whip the top cam cover off to ensure that the adjustable wheels hadn't moved. All good there. Next stop was the plugs. Pulled these out and they were all as black as a lump of soot. Hmmmm.
Put some new plugs in, fired it up and while it did run better, it still wouldn't idle - all seemed better when the revs were above around 2k. So we disconnected the map sensor and connected a vacuum pump and set it to 15mmHg and cranked the motor over. And it ran fine making us point the finger at a vacuum idle issue, possible cam related.
Rather than alter the cam timing which we knew was set up exactly as per HKS spec sheet (Inlet - 110 deg duration / Exhaust - 103 deg duration), it was decided to try altering the TPS again (previously set to factory setting). Doing this yielded an immediate result, the engine running much smoother, but still not happy under 1000rpm. So the ignition was advance by 14 degrees in total. With this done, the engine was much happier. However, blipping the throttle caused issues when the revs dropped usually resulting in a stall. To help prevent this, the throttle stop was altered to keep idle at 1000rpm.
Everything was put back together and the car taken for a spin round the block. Back to the workshop for a check of fluid levels before going out for a decent road test. No leaks were evident.
I'm pleased to say that there were no issues whatsoever. Car was extremely smooth all the way up to 5k and despite keeping away from full throttle openings, the motor felt very strong and eager to unleash a lot of torque - especially when the cams started to come into action.
It has been a very frustrating and tiresome period trying to get it running, but all is now well. Another 920kms to go before an oil change and then another 4k before the boost can be turned up. In the meantime, sensible driving and a trip to the dyno shortly to check that the fuelling is as it should be.
Gary

01-11-2006, 01:47 AM	#1 (permalink)
GT4WRC Posts: 92 Join Date: Sep 2005 Last On: 07-16-2006 06:51 PM	2006 update... Finished! While I was swanning around Europe, the new pistons were successfully fitted to the revised block.... ... we couldn't get some ACL +1mm pistons so turned to a set of Wisecos from the US... So, with that part completed, I could now start putting everything back together.. ARP studs fitted along with the new HG... Oil pick-up and splash pan fitted following a few hours in the acid bath.... New crank oil seal fitted.... Due to different cams, altered CR and different pistons, a test was required to ensure that valves and pistons didn't come into contact with each other so off to the local toy shop for some... This was then put onto the piston crowns where the valves would likely come into contact... Once all 4 pistons had been set so they sat half way up the bores, the cylinder head could be fitted and torqued into place.... The top cam cover backing plate and lower belt cover were fitted next to ensure that the cam wheels and bottom pulley were positioned correctly.... .... prior to the cambelt being fitted.... Once everything was properly assembled, the engine was carefully turned over for a few revolutions, taking care to ensure that there was no unwanted resistance. Then, the belt and head were removed so the doh on the pistons could be inspected. This revealed plenty of clearance between pistons and valves. Obviously a good thing.... With the doh removed, the head could be refitted. This being the current state and the end of play today... Work prevents me from doing more until Friday morning when the rebuild will continue. Watch this space... Gary Last edited by GT4WRC : 01-17-2006 at 01:23 AM.

01-11-2006, 01:58 PM	#3 (permalink)
Arabian_Knight AK47 Location: Richmond Hill Posts: 3,800 Join Date: May 2005 Last On: 02-09-2008 01:14 AM Vehicle: G35 Coupe 6MT 2nd Vehicle: Swapped 5th gen	I love these updates...its like a whole learning experience for me to watch something as thorough and precise as this. Great posting, project and information! __________________

01-11-2006, 08:41 PM	#6 (permalink)
JR Resident 1st Gen Location: Owen Sound, ON Posts: 2,435 Join Date: Sep 2005 Last On: Yesterday 08:59 PM Vehicle: 90 Civic DX 2nd Vehicle: 77 Celica	wow, as always, an amazement agreeing with locker and martin good to have ya back :D __________________ J.R.

01-14-2006, 03:31 AM	#12 (permalink)
3sgte@daspeedof Hi-Tech Location: Mississauga Posts: 3,702 Join Date: May 2004 Last On: 09-03-2008 07:50 PM Vehicle: 3sgte-5th gen 2nd Vehicle: 92 5th gen celi	Simply amazing, I can't help but think I'm working with a half track, and your building a subtle beast. __________________ Boost is a necessity just like air, once you take your first breath you can't live with out it! Salon Spa Software for all your management software needs. http://salonspaware.com - spa salon software

01-16-2006, 10:43 PM	#14 (permalink)
Speak07 Location: Rittman, OH Posts: 5 Join Date: Jan 2006 Last On: 01-16-2006 11:28 PM	You have my two of favorite cars ever sitting there, one of which I own, the other I wish I did. Got me a mkII MR2, but alas no GT-four :( lol __________________ "Love forever, love is free, let's turn forever, you and me" -- The Gorillaz, Feel Good Inc.

01-11-2006, 06:31 PM	#5 (permalink)
GT4WRC Posts: 92 Join Date: Sep 2005 Last On: 07-16-2006 06:51 PM	Nice to be back :)

01-12-2006, 03:34 AM	#7 (permalink)
GT4WRC Posts: 92 Join Date: Sep 2005 Last On: 07-16-2006 06:51 PM	Managed to skive of work this arvo and managed to get quite a bit done. Finishing off fitting the sump to the bottom of the motor... ... including a nice shiney powdercoated sump pan Genuine parts where possible. New belt and idler and tensioner wheels... ... finished off the camblet side of things... ... allowing the bottom cover to be fitted. OE fuel rail (for now) was bolted on. As this was originally a 3SGE head, slight mods had to be made - including the injector holes which needed to be enlarged to suit the 3S-GTE injectors. Then the inlet manifold could go on. To the front and fitment of the alternator bracket and bling alternator :D State at the end of the day. Loom is now partially fitted along with numerous hoses etc. Really glad I took lots of photos before I stripped the motor down Need to adapt the cam cover slightly as I can't use the centre throttle body support due to the lack of castings etc on the n/a head. No real issues asthere is plenty of other support. Once that is done the cover can be fitted. Then, hopefully, time to fit the box. More to follow tomorrow :D Gary

01-14-2006, 01:18 AM	#11 (permalink)
GT4WRC Posts: 92 Join Date: Sep 2005 Last On: 07-16-2006 06:51 PM	Quite a productive couple of days. Turbo and manifold were fitted. Sticking with the stock items for the time being. Note the WRC extras such as the antilag attachments... Lightweight Fidanza flywheel was bolted on... ... followed by the Xtreme clutch kit... Found the adjustable cam wheels I'd put somewhere 'safe' Cams were set up last night as per the HKS spec sheet... With that done, the cam cover could be bolted into place... Next, the transfer case was split from the gearbox to allow it all to be bolted up to the motor... With that done, the rest of the wiring loom was attached along with any other brackets etc... And with the alternator, PAS and aircon drive belts on, next step is to put the complete unit back where it came from :D Gary

01-15-2006, 01:46 AM	#13 (permalink)
GT4WRC Posts: 92 Join Date: Sep 2005 Last On: 07-16-2006 06:51 PM	After nearly 8 weeks, it was time to put the motor/box back in. :D Reverse of removal, simply lowered the car onto the engine.... ... allowing the gearbox and cambelt end mounts to be attached - the engine then being held it place. Then it was 'simply' a case of putting everything back together... Planty of room with the larger Koyo rad and Kenlow fans... Once the 'top half' was finished, the underside was pieced back together... ... and rear diff and gearbox were filled with new oil... At this stage, all that remains to do is fill up the cooling system, WAI, bleed the brakes, fit the wheels and plug in the loom under the dash. Then it'll be the real acid test - turning the key. Until then, the car will sit like this until the morning... Having access to a fully kitted out workshop is such a bonus ;) Gary

01-17-2006, 01:02 AM	#15 (permalink)
ThroesofRejection Location: Omaha, Ne Posts: 261 Join Date: Sep 2005 Last On: 07-30-2006 03:51 AM	Bet you won't be able to sleep tonight, seeing as you'll be drivin' your baby (hopefully) tommorrow. Can we expect to see any vids? __________________ That\'s my Baby. I love her. Her name is Selisa.

01-17-2006, 01:22 AM	#16 (permalink)
GT4WRC Posts: 92 Join Date: Sep 2005 Last On: 07-16-2006 06:51 PM	Turned up the next morning ready to go. Topped up the fluids - plain water in the cooling system (no glycol for the first 1000kms) Water Wetter was added to the WAI along with sufficient water... ... and Valvoline SAE 30 API SF/CC 'Running In Oil'. OE plugs were removed from the original fans and soldered to the new Kenlow fans and connected... Now the time to turn the key. Fuel pump had been left disconnected following the earlier swap to an uprated aftermarket pump. Engine was then cranked over until the oil warning light on the dash was extinguished. It was then tried a couple more times just to make sure before the pump was reconnected. Then all was ready... Key was turned and the engine actually fired up pretty quickly and wasn't too bad on idle. It was left to get up to temp - but it was soon evident that there was a water leak. Switched off and further investigation revealed that the OE coolant spring clamps were no long doing what they were supposed to. With hindsight, these should have been swapped to jubilee clamps during the rebuild! So, after much hassle, the coolant pipe clamps were swapped and teh system pressure tested to ensure all was as it should be. Car was then restarted, ran for a short time and then cut out. Restarting wasn't an issue, but it just wouldn't idle - holding the revs up with the throttle open helped, but something was amiss... As it would still run with throttle open, we drove car up the road to get a WOF and see if it'll sort itself out. No such luck. Ran even worse when you start to come onto boost. So after passing the WOF, get car back to workshop for further investigation. Only fault code which shows up is 54 - WAI system which is cleared. Then, Air Control Valve shows problem up on the diagnostic tool which is then cleared. Still no idle. TPS is checked and found to be out so is altered to correct factory setting, but still won't idle. Checked to ensure all the plugs are attached and no obvious vac pipes etc left off. By this time, motor is cold and when re-started, it seems to run fine. However, as soon as the temp starts to rise, the idle goes to pot once again. Ignition is spot on and good flow of fuel. Diagnostic sensor shows the 'mixture' reading as alternating between rich and lean. No more fault codes are coming up on either the diagnostic tool or the dashboard. At this stage it's getting late, so it's left until the next morning... Tried restarting the car first thing this morning, but now it just didn't want to idle. So first thing was to whip the top cam cover off to ensure that the adjustable wheels hadn't moved. All good there. Next stop was the plugs. Pulled these out and they were all as black as a lump of soot. Hmmmm. Put some new plugs in, fired it up and while it did run better, it still wouldn't idle - all seemed better when the revs were above around 2k. So we disconnected the map sensor and connected a vacuum pump and set it to 15mmHg and cranked the motor over. And it ran fine making us point the finger at a vacuum idle issue, possible cam related. Rather than alter the cam timing which we knew was set up exactly as per HKS spec sheet (Inlet - 110 deg duration / Exhaust - 103 deg duration), it was decided to try altering the TPS again (previously set to factory setting). Doing this yielded an immediate result, the engine running much smoother, but still not happy under 1000rpm. So the ignition was advance by 14 degrees in total. With this done, the engine was much happier. However, blipping the throttle caused issues when the revs dropped usually resulting in a stall. To help prevent this, the throttle stop was altered to keep idle at 1000rpm. Everything was put back together and the car taken for a spin round the block. Back to the workshop for a check of fluid levels before going out for a decent road test. No leaks were evident. I'm pleased to say that there were no issues whatsoever. Car was extremely smooth all the way up to 5k and despite keeping away from full throttle openings, the motor felt very strong and eager to unleash a lot of torque - especially when the cams started to come into action. It has been a very frustrating and tiresome period trying to get it running, but all is now well. Another 920kms to go before an oil change and then another 4k before the boost can be turned up. In the meantime, sensible driving and a trip to the dyno shortly to check that the fuelling is as it should be. Gary Last edited by GT4WRC : 01-17-2006 at 02:05 AM.