Project started - pics....

[GT4WRC]

What a lovely way to spend a day - pulling the motor and box out of the 4

Dropping the subframe...





Subframe and exhaust removed...





Driveshaft out...





Engine and box just about ready to come out (loom was the worst part!)





Part of the WRC version's antilag system...



With the motor resting on 'supports', the car was hoisted upwards...





Thanks to my mate for the use of his workshop :D



My, what a big gap!



Uses for Holden Ute wheels #24



Looking a bit sorry for itself right now :cry:



Next step is to start pulling the motor and box apart so the real fun can begin ;)
Gary

[Pineapple]

Damn I need a hoist in my garage/backyard.

[Ratko]

very nice. ive never seen that exhaust manifold before. that's crazy.

good luck with the buildup.

[GT4_WRC]

Downpipe looks like its seen better days lol
Lookin good.
Very tidy paint work too!!

[MartinGouda]

anti lags system SICK

[Ratko]

not only do they get the GT4 Celicas overseas, but WRC versions on top of that... insane. with our winters you'd figure we would need it more than they do.

[GT4_WRC]

The WRC version means nothing, its only 10Bhp more then a stock 205, the manifold cant handle the ALS (Anti Lag) temperatures, the ALS needs a few hundred quid (Dollars) & an ECU thrown in to get it to work, the spray bar is not connected & when it is connected is a pile of crap, the water injection is also a load of crap, the best thing they did install was a bleed valve but that was only on a few of the WRC models anyway.
The other thing about the WRC models was that they were installed with the early thin block which crack's with the utmost of ease, hence why we don’t even think about installing 2.2ltr stroker kits or 87mm pistons.

[MartinGouda]

ratko he's tearing down our false reality

[Lil_lissa]

i want those headlights
fack

[GT4WRC]

Originally Posted by GT4_WRC

The WRC version means nothing, its only 10Bhp more then a stock 205, the manifold cant handle the ALS (Anti Lag) temperatures, the ALS needs a few hundred quid (Dollars) & an ECU thrown in to get it to work, the spray bar is not connected & when it is connected is a pile of crap, the water injection is also a load of crap, the best thing they did install was a bleed valve but that was only on a few of the WRC models anyway.
The other thing about the WRC models was that they were installed with the early thin block which crack's with the utmost of ease, hence why we don’t even think about installing 2.2ltr stroker kits or 87mm pistons.

GT4_WRC
Couldn't you have thought of a more original username

Couple of points. WRC version deos not have 10bhp more than the 'normal' GT4. They all have the same power output. Only variation is between the JDM and the UK/Eurpoe/AUS/NZ markets. JDM cars have more power due to different ECU to run higher octane fuel.
Secondly, early WRC models being fitted with thin blocks is rubbish. The same Gen III motor was used in all the GT4s.
I have no idea where you have got your information from, but it is certainly not true
Gary

[GT4_WRC]

Sorry I didnt know about the username thing...

I have a JDM WRC hence my statement on the Bhp, most people have a JDM WRC *;)

2500 WRC cars were sold...

2100 were sold in Japan and 400 to the rest of the world...

Fensports in the UK can verify that there ARE thin & thick blocks.

the thinner walled blocks appear to be 1994ish, but no one can tell for sure. Only way to find out is to ultrasound test the cylinder bores approx 25mm from top of cylinder 2.
Regards
Adrian

Adrian From Fensport quote above.

Initial results from an ultrasound indicate that the block I have is a thick walled block.

All cylinders measure a wall thickness of ~6.0mm or more.

I did notice a very small section of the block directly between cylinders 2 and 3 was thinner than all other areas. This measured ~4.2mm and was ~60mm from the top of the block.

From a post Adrian mentioned before a thin walled block is deemed to be ~2.8mm thick whereas a thick walled block is >3.8mm.

There were 2 blocks supplied by Toyota:

11401-79675 – manufactured 94/02 > 98/01
11401-79676 – manufactured 98/01 > 99/08

All blocks now supplied are the later type. The revisions to the block are unknown, apparently this was just a part number change but I'm sceptical.

Apparently the risk of a thin block is a lot lower if the later block is bought.

Verification from another GT4 owner quote above.

& here is the last quote again from Adrian of Fensports:

Toyota have changed the part numbers for the 205 block, they nor TTE or TRD or anyone else will admit to there being a problem on some blocks.
The problem is generally between 2&3 cylinder although we have recently found thin areas at the rear of no4.

A thick wall block will be between 150-160 thou thick, and a thin one will be approx 110 thou.
Now the problem comes when you ask "how thick for how much BHP"
This is not an easy question to answer, my advice is don`t build any block less than 140thou unless its going to be left standard.
Measuring the block is not at all easy, best use an engineer who can ultrasound test the average thickness - I say average as - If you imagine the outer side of the cylinder is not uniform.
450whp is approx 570 flywheel which is big power in my book, I would not use any bigger than 86.25 bore on a thicker type block.

TTE group A blocks are fine, but hard to get hold of, and very expensive as you`ll need special pistons as well, the block is 3mm lower deck height.

I use a standard block as I don`t beleive tte one is the right approach for us, for one they will run out - then what do we all do? For another the expense.

Only last week we rejected two ST205 blocks for rebuild, 1 was 120thou, and the other 110 thou, this was particularily annoying as I thought they were all ok - just shows you trust no-one, and measure everything.....
Hopefully that`ll save some expensive mistakes!!!

Some people don`t believe what we say - they think we make it up to sell blocks - all I can tell you is what I have found - the rest is up to you.

So that leads me to believe you have got the wrong information.

Dont know who Fensports are... http://www.fensport.co.uk/

& check out the Corolla in the Fensports Cars section... thats the "Thick" walled 3S-GTE.

[ConSynX]

re-tarded



Looks good...keep up the progress pics

[MartinGouda]

that was such a good argument i will never even tell this guy he's wrong about my name if he calls me matt

it's kindof scary, because they both seem to know their shit.... not like a normal argument here where there's a retard, and someone who knows their shit.

[MartinGouda]

when this car is done it will be our new mascot..

[ConSynX]

what's the current macot of Celispeed?

[GT4WRC]

GT4_WRC
This is the first time I've heard about this thin and thick wall business. I've done a fair bit of research on the net and spoken to people locally who have a lot of experience with 3S-GTE tuning and have not come across this before. It may well be true as I have no proof to discount it, but all the evidence points to the Gen III version of the 3S-GTE to be the best to get serious power from. Until I hear the same thing from other reliable sources, I will treat it with a pinch of salt. There can be variations in castings over a production run which could apply to any year 3S motor.
Besides, I am only going 0.5 oversized so no problems for my project on that front :D
Gary